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Tuesday, 3 December 2013
Tuesday, 9 July 2013
Samburu; Scenic, rugged, thrilling.
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Ever been stuck in mud in the night, in some lonesome jungle
where the only sound you hear is the breaking of tree trunks as elephants bring
trees down while feeding, the laugh of a satisfied hyena or the rare roar
of the mighty Lion? Welcome to the forgotten wilderness that is Samburu!
Tucked in the lonely jungles within Kenya’s larger Northern
frontier and adjacent to the extensive Laikipia plateaus, Samburu stretches
from Isiolo in the East to L.Turkana in the North. This is one place any nature
lover with a bit of adrenaline should aim to explore. Mount Kenya towers
majestically above the plains to the South East, the rest being endless plains
teeming with wildlife, and a few rugged hilly patches scattered here and there.
From Nairobi, there are two main ways to Samburu; You can
make your way to Samburu via Karatina, Nanyuki and Isiolo, or you may consider
the western route; To Rumuruti via Naivasha, Gilgil and Nyahururu then on North
to Maralal. Both routes offer scenic views, with the Eastern route snaking
through the lush green highlands of central Kenya, then the semi-arid plains on
the foot of mount Kenya between Karatina and Nanyuki. The Western route, my
all-time favorite, offers magnificent views of the Great Rift Valley with
Mt.Longonot and L.Naivasha being within range. The steady change in vegetation
as climatic conditions vary is also quite an experience; from the thick greens
of Limuru and Lari to the acacia and thorny euphoria in Naivasha and Gilgil.
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| The 'roads' of Samburu |
Samburu has zero kilometers of tarmarked roads. Yeah, you’ll
be lucky to find a few tens of kilometers of graded roads either. So a powerful
four wheel drive with enough ground clearance will be a worthy companion during
your stay there. Or if you’re lucky enough to co-incide with the dry season
there then a less powerful vehicle will do just fine.
The stretch from Rumuruti to Maralal is an interesting one.
Apart from the occasional vans hauling people between the two towns, you will
encounter tourist vans, lorries and speedy miraa
(Khat) haulers in Toyotas. You are certain to encounter most of the Big-five
members along the way. Lions are a particular common sight along this corridor,
along with elephants and buffalo. Most of the road is narrow, and you may have
to find your way around bushes sometimes, especially after it rains. The roads
can be a bit messy, but then again, that’s why visiting Samburu is all fun!
The Samburus are
amazing people. You’ll find a young man guiding a herd of cattle through a
place you wouldn’t think of getting out of your vehicle at. They have an
admirable relationship with the lions. The beasts keep a respectable distance
between themselves and the morans.
A few hotels are available within Samburu National Park for
those who’d prefer guided tours.
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| Samburu Morans at Suguta Mar mar |
Wednesday, 29 May 2013
Monday, 13 May 2013
Monday, 29 April 2013
The Southern Adventure (Part 2)
Challa Charm
Few people
know of its existence. Its story is as mystical as its existence Tucked deep within
a crater on a remote part of the Kenya-Tanzania border lies an exquisite piece
of gem. A caldera lake like no other, this beautiful 4.5 square kilometer and
94-metre deep water mass actually changes color from hues of green to blue and turquoise
depending on the season. The experience is just breathtaking. Welcome to Lake Challa!
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| Lake challa |
Lake Challa lies 100 metres deep within a
crater, with heavily forested rims. It is said to have been formed thousands of
years ago through explosive volcanic eruptions. It gets its crystal-clear
waters from underground streams originating from the Kilimanjaro.
The nearest
town and easiest way to get to Challa
is via the town of Taveta, from which you can drive North to the lake. Like Taita
Hills, you’ll need more than an estate wagon to manouvre through the rocky
dry-weather access roads that link up to Challa.
The descent
down the caldera slope to the surface of the lake isn’t any easier; safari
boots will come in handy. And you’ll have to watch out for slithery reptiles;
We encountered at least two serpents during our visit there. Word has it that
some white settler introduced crocs into the lake in the early 1900s. However,
the last documented case of a crocodile attack was way back in 2001, so a
plunge into the crystalline waters shouldn't be that a risky affair.
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| 'You will need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to challa' |
There are no
notable places of accommodation on the Kenyan side near the lake. For the
adventurous, a tented weekend out should be quite an experience. The upper
slopes provide ample grounds for this.
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| 'The crystal-clear waters of Challa' |
Friday, 26 April 2013
The Southern Adventure (Part 1)
The Allure
of The Misty Hills
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| One of the rocky hill outcrops |
Driving up
the Sagalla massif from Voi town,
along the narrow winding dry weather roads, the change of scenery from the arid
savanna that is the lowlands to the lush greens that are the indigenous forests
with plant species found nowhere else in
Kenya, I’m introduced to a kind of flora
and fauna combination I never thought existed before. From the happy call of
the birds, eerie sounds by little-known animal species and the sway of tropical
branches to the gentle breeze that constantly brushes against the misty hills,
the view only gets better with every excruciating inch up the little more than
beaten tracks that are the access roads. Yes, the roads are the only downside
if being hurled up and down the cabin isn’t exactly your idea of adventure. But
for the spirited adventurer, the journey’s worth every minute of it. This is
one place you’ll find trees with colored leaves, like the way autumn leaves develop
awesome hues of red and purple in the temperate regions.
The one
thing that makes this place so unique is its climate; The blend of coastal
warmness and the humidity in the higher altitudes brings forth a delicate
balance that supports this diversity. And you don’t really expect people to be
staying along this seemingly unexploited territory until you get to the peak
and you find yourself amidst beautiful and very friendly people.
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| The road from Mwatate to Wundanyi |
There’s
something about the water table in the entire Taita Hills range; everywhere you
go, crystal-clear water seems to be seeping from the rocks into tiny rivulets.
How to Get
There
Uniquely
located within the larger coastal region of south-western Kenya in Taita Taveta
County, Taita hills presents possibly one of the most overlooked or least known
travel destinations in Kenya. Lying along latitude 3°25´ and longitude 38°20´, the hills offer an exhilarating
escape into the heart of nature.
The hills are a low-lying mountain range with
several peaks, the most notable ones being Sagala, located near Voi township, Kasigau near Kenya’s border with Tanzania and
Dawida.
Now, most of
Taita Taveta county is a no-go zone unless you have a powerful four-wheel drive
vehicle. The only tarmacked road is from Voi, (the largest town in the region)
to mwatate, then the branch from Mwatate to Wundanyi. It’s not much of a road
though, but it’s just what you need for the complete hilly experience.
The hills
are easily accessible from both Nairobi and Mombasa, the country’s largest and
second largest cities respectively. If using public transport, you can get a
bus to Voi from where you can get vans to Sagala and Wundanyi. It costs around Ksh.1000(USD
12) from Nairobi to Voi and around Ksh400(USD 5) from Mombasa.
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| The general aerial view with Wundanyi town in the middle |
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