Samburu; Scenic, rugged, thrilling.

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Ever been stuck in mud in the night, in some lonesome jungle where the only sound you hear is the breaking of tree trunks as elephants bring trees down while feeding, the laugh of a satisfied hyena or the rare roar of the mighty Lion? Welcome to the forgotten wilderness that is Samburu!

Tucked in the lonely jungles within Kenya’s larger Northern frontier and adjacent to the extensive Laikipia plateaus, Samburu stretches from Isiolo in the East to L.Turkana in the North. This is one place any nature lover with a bit of adrenaline should aim to explore. Mount Kenya towers majestically above the plains to the South East, the rest being endless plains teeming with wildlife, and a few rugged hilly patches scattered here and there.

From Nairobi, there are two main ways to Samburu; You can make your way to Samburu via Karatina, Nanyuki and Isiolo, or you may consider the western route; To Rumuruti via Naivasha, Gilgil and Nyahururu then on North to Maralal. Both routes offer scenic views, with the Eastern route snaking through the lush green highlands of central Kenya, then the semi-arid plains on the foot of mount Kenya between Karatina and Nanyuki. The Western route, my all-time favorite, offers magnificent views of the Great Rift Valley with Mt.Longonot and L.Naivasha being within range. The steady change in vegetation as climatic conditions vary is also quite an experience; from the thick greens of Limuru and Lari to the acacia and thorny euphoria in Naivasha and Gilgil.

The 'roads' of Samburu

Samburu has zero kilometers of tarmarked roads. Yeah, you’ll be lucky to find a few tens of kilometers of graded roads either. So a powerful four wheel drive with enough ground clearance will be a worthy companion during your stay there. Or if you’re lucky enough to co-incide with the dry season there then a less powerful vehicle will do just fine.

The stretch from Rumuruti to Maralal is an interesting one. Apart from the occasional vans hauling people between the two towns, you will encounter tourist vans, lorries and speedy miraa (Khat) haulers in Toyotas. You are certain to encounter most of the Big-five members along the way. Lions are a particular common sight along this corridor, along with elephants and buffalo. Most of the road is narrow, and you may have to find your way around bushes sometimes, especially after it rains. The roads can be a bit messy, but then again, that’s why visiting Samburu is all fun!

The Samburus are amazing people. You’ll find a young man guiding a herd of cattle through a place you wouldn’t think of getting out of your vehicle at. They have an admirable relationship with the lions. The beasts keep a respectable distance between themselves and the morans.

A few hotels are available within Samburu National Park for those who’d prefer guided tours.

Samburu Morans at Suguta Mar mar